2005/01/25
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Four Regions - Two Hemispheres -
32 Climate Zones - ONE COUNTRY!
16 days / 15 nights
Ecuador: One of the most diverse countries on earth!
Day 1: Arrival – Transfer to the hotel
Day 2: Quito: Old colonial city centre. City tour; first impression of Ecuador, a land of contrasts. Café Tianguez. Dinner at a typical Ecuadorian restaurant. Colonial architecture and glittering bank buildings.
While landing in Quito, in the morning sunlight, the snow-capped peaks of Mt. Cotopaxi and Mt. Chimborazo shine their “HOLA” to us. The cool morning breeze awakens our spirits. We hurl ourselves into the crowded “trole”, starting to familiarize with the contrasts between modern and colonial Quito. Indigenous women, in their colourful traditional garments, carrying their babies on their backs, offer fruits or chewing gums in front of splendid glittering buildings, where white-collar office employees go in and out, amid an occidental hustle and bustle. Amazed, we go for a walk through picturesque streets, cobblestone passages, with colonial houses, magnificent churches, monastery courtyards, palaces and squares. We pause for a break and take a “tinto” at the Cafetería Tianguez, under the galleries of the San Francisco Church; in front of us, the bustling plaza. Accommodation.
Day 3: Flight QUITO – MANTA – Warm sea breeze. Just leisure time, or opportunity to pick bananas, hike or swim.
Wonderful sandy beaches - Hammocks
During our flight to Manta, we are informed that there are 38 climate zones in the whole world; Ecuador has 32 of them! Warm sea breeze blows down upon us. Wide sandy beaches border the hot coast road, through Canoa to the Mantaraya Hotel in Puerto López. We did not know that bananas grow in plastic bags! Thus, they can be served unstained to us. What a pleasure to eat a banana picked directly from the tree! Accommodation: the nice Mantaraya Hotel.
Day 4: A refreshing welcome cocktail. Solango Archeological Museum.
Ceviche snack.
Excursion to Solango, a small fishing village, 5 km to the south of Puerto López. Of great interest the Archeological Museum. In Río Blanco, one of the most beautiful hiking trails, through a true nature paradise, with wonderful crystal-clear waterfalls and exuberant vegetation. By horse into the heart of the rain forest, accompanied by yelling monkeys and many other animals; a tour with a magic touch, towards the highest point in Machalilla Park: Bola de Oro (Gold Sphere, 800 m asl). Next, a refreshing swim in the Pacific Ocean, before going to bed. Accommodation: Mantaraya Hotel.
Day 5: Isla de la Plata – Small Galapagos – See lions and blue-footed boobies –
In the afternoon, swim in the Pacific Ocean.
Small Galapagos – See lions and blue-footed boobies
We set sail for “Isla de la Plata” – also called Small Galapagos - on the “Mantaraya” Yacht. From the end of June through September, the colossal humpback whales, which mate here, can be watched. No fear, they are used to curious watchers. In the afternoon: either hammock, or rejoice in the Pacific Ocean.
Day 6: Drive from the coast up to the Quilotoa Lagoon in the Andes. Hold warm clothing ready! Admire or take part in the naive paintings of highland indigenous. Dinner and accomodation.
Colourful landscape
Day 7: Saquisili Indian market - Majestic glacier “Lord of the Snow”: Mt. Chimborazo
Lively, colourful bustle at the Saquisili market. I’m very proud of my acquired “tupo” (silver needle to hold the poncho together). A hot “canelazo” against the frosty temperatures of the “Lord of the Snow”, the majestic Mt. Chimborazo glacier. Accommodation.
From the coast, along endless banana and cacao plantations, through Andean valleys up to the icy paramo scenery, at 3200 m. We perceive the chilly low temperature: pullover and cap at hand! In the evening, we listen to old legends of the highland indigenous at the Black Sheep Inn, while enjoying a hot cup of tea.
From the cliffy Quilotoa crater edge, an overwhelming view down to the silent deep blue lagoon bellow us. Indios in their ponchos seem to appear from nowhere. They wait, patient and respectful, until we turn to their paintings. Bargaining commences!
Day 8: Early in the morning towards the train station. Zigzag train ride to the Devil’s Nose. Our journey continues to Cuenca. Peña (traditional music and dancing).
By train to the Devil’s Nose
We can hardly wait until we get on the “steam engine”. An adventure through captivating scenery! The highlight: sitting on the roof of the wagon! The train makes its way to the notorious Devil’s Nose! Sometimes the train seems to float! Our friendly driver is waiting for us after this adventure! Accommodation.
Remark: should the train be out of service, we make the trip by bus/car, walking at times along the tracks.
Day 9: The “Athens of Ecuador”, city tour. We visit arts and crafts villages (Panama hats, textiles, basketry, etc.); gold and silver jewelry in Chordeleg.
Cuenca – The “Athens of Ecuador”.
Stubborn Cañaris, bellicose Incas, gold-hungry Spaniards, French Jesuits, poets and an Olympic race walking champion: these are the arguments of the proud culture metropolis with great provincial charm. Placid strolling along narrow cobblestone streets, adorned with wrought-iron balconies; time seems to have stopped.
Most important arts and crafts centre in Ecuador. In Chordeleg I cannot resist buying gold and silver jewelry. What a fine souvenir such a noble straw hat! Alberto Pulla, the hatter, is very proud to tell us that no “gringo” has ever left his store without a hat. Pottery, leather goods, antiquities, Ikat weavings, basketry!
Day 10: The tour continues to Baños (approx. 5-hour bus ride) along colourful patchwork-like countryside up to the foot of the Mt. Tungurahua snow giant, 5016 m. Opportunity to take a stroll, or taste juice or sweeties made of sugar cane.
Day 11: Baños: Opportunity of hiking, horse riding, mountain biking or just enjoying its hot spring waters. In the evening: Peña, where we dance till dawn.
“Door to the Jungle”
Baños. The “Door to the Jungle” at the foot of Mt. Tungurahua, 5.016 m! Mild, springlike weather. Small streets disposed like a checkerboard, with sub tropical front gardens. Cozy Cafés and a variety of restaurants, which please almost every palate. I’m eager to try sugar cane. Some went for a horse ride; the others explore the surroundings by mountain bike. Petra und Gerd wished to rejoice in the thermal springs. In the evening: “AMANITAY” Peña, where we sing along and dance till dawn.
Day 12: On our journey into the Amazonia, stop at Puyo and visit of the sugar cane spirits distillery. 4-hour hike or canoe ride. Delightful meals. Campfire. Accommodation: Liana Lodge.
Day 14: Our journey continues through Baeza to the hot spring waters of Papallacta. Relax in the thermal springs and afterwards an exquisite trout dish. Have you ever drunk a glass of champagne while lying in a thermal spring under the starry sky of Ecuador?
Almost like Tarzan – unforgettable romanticism
Baeza: Sway on the rope bridge. Papallacta: a dreamlike spot in a green valley trough. We’ve observed the Mt. Antizana icy giant from our wonderfully warm thermal springs. With great appetite, we eat the tasty trout. At night, lying in the hot springs, we enjoy a glass of champagne under the magnificent starry sky of Ecuador. A falling star – my wish: “often such romanticism!” Accommodation.
Day 13: We visit the virgin forest hospital, explanation on medicinal plants, visit to the Shaman, try for gold washing or just take a swim.
“The Green Lungs of the Planet”
Puyo – Surveying of the sugar cane spirits distillery in Puyo (80 % alcohol content) Chichicorumi – Sinchi Runa – what melodic names! Those in condition hike to the camp; the others let Pedro take them by canoe. Wearing rubber boots, after a 4-hour hike, jungle sound and wondrous air, we drag ourselves the last minutes laughing to the camp; we feel euphoric!
We launch ourselves like wolves onto the exquisite meals. Those who are still not tired, enjoy the starry sky by the campfire side. With the music of the jungle I pleasingly fall asleep.
Medicinal plants – virgin forest hospital – the Shaman lets his frond swing over our heads – gold washing – inside inflated tires floating down the Arajuno River. I’ve always wished to try lemon flavour ants! Unforgettable adventures. Accommodation.
Day 15: Drive back to Quito, Equator baptism.
Equator baptism in the “Middle of the World” – even with champagne and certificate – so that everybody believes us! Ethnological Museum – we all live through our journey once again! Not to be missed: in the afternoon, stroll along the Amazonas Ave., in order to buy the last handicrafts. Fortunately, we may only carry one piece of luggage! Once again, with fervent Latin-American music, we let steam off, thus trying to avoid the starting sadness of saying good-bye.
Day 16: Early in the morning, return flight – One last nostalgic glance at this unforgettable Ecuador!
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